Sunday, May 30, 2010

All Italia


Is it, in short, ever well to be elsewhere when one might be in Italy?
                                                        

                                                                                                                          Edith Wharton




What is it about Italy that makes us swoon?
 Just saying the name of that romantic place is enough to set off daydreams, from which only a cold flute of Prosecco can rouse you.

Just back from the most fabulous trip, here are the top ten things I love about Italy.

If you have never been, I urge you to set aside some money and time to make the trip.
If you have had the privilege to visit, you may nod your head along in recognition.

1. There's no hurry.
When you've already done the hard work of creating modern civilization, what's the urgency? You can close the shop for three hours in the middle of the day. You can take a leisurely lunch at a trattoria instead of your desk. Enjoy a slower pace.

2. Wine.
It's everywhere, all the time. Lunch, dinner and I've even seen Italianos sipping a glass at breakfast.  A local house wine is as perfectly delicious as a bottle with a pedigree (at least to me it is). And if you have a charming waiter, he will continue to fill your glass of house wine "on the house", until you finish your meal. Yes, the Italians are generous with their wine.

3. Gelato.
Flavors you've never heard of and you are allowed more than one per cone. And don't overlook granita - very refreshing after a long hike from town to town in Cinque Terre.





4. Coffee.
Each cup is made individually to order, everywhere. Even at the train station, you can get a really good espresso, freshly made, just for you. No huge urns of coffee made hours ago. And no one is rushing around clutching to-go cups. Just stand at the coffee bar and enjoy. See #1.



5. Walled cities.
We adored the city of Lucca, with its strong, high walls, first built by the Romans, then expanded three more times in later centuries. Pisa is also fortified by a wall as are many other smaller hill towns.
Can you imagine if New York City or Boston had a huge wall surrounding it, to keep out marauders? Just a thought.



6. Growing stuff.
No plot is ever too tiny, or too steep, for growing. Very often it's grapes (see #2). We also saw loads of lemon trees, which I got a big kick out of. Wouldn't I just love to have that in my yard!





7. Passeggiata
The leisurely stroll through town, at sunset, before dinner. There is an art to this: Walk slowly (preferably arm-in-arm), browse the windows, chat quietly. Enjoy the beautiful light of late evening. Again, see #1.

8. Art and architecture
From soaring duomos to simple Palladian structures, Renaissance frescoes, Romanesque arches, and della Robbia terra cotta. All you have to do is walk along the street and peek into any of the centuries-old churches to have a lesson in art history. It's all here, mostly free and awesome in the truest sense of the word.

Santa Croce, Florence



San Michele, Lucca

San Frediano, Lucca


Duomo, Pisa

Della Robbia decoration, San Frediano




9. Pesto and panini
We spent a few days in Cinque Terre, on the Ligurian coast. Pesto is a specialty there. It's always been a favorite of mine and when eaten there, in the sunshine, it tastes extra-heavenly. Trofi pasta at Trattoria dal Billy, on a steep terrace overlooking Manarola was particularly delicious. A panini on fresh foccacia, with creamy mozzarella and grilled vegetables, is a welcome snack after walking all day.

At 'Ino, near the Uffizi in Florence


10. Pasta - of course!
Sure it's cliche, but honestly, the pasta is so much better in Italy. Maybe it's the flour, maybe it's the water (maybe it's the wine - again, see #2) or the judicious use of sauce - whatever, there's just no comparison.
My favorite dish of the trip was spaghetti with tiny clams at Miky in Monterosso.  Second was a pasta we had the first night at a new ristorante in Florence, called Beccaio (highly recommend it). The pasta  was a triangular-shaped tube with asparagus and proscuitto - squisito! Alas, no photos - too hungry.



Not pasta, but fresh anchovies also at Miky



And finally a grazie mille (many thanks) to my dear husband for a wonderful trip  - pre-celebration of my own half century birthday, coming up very soon.


Are you a fan on Facebook? If so, you can see more pictures here.  If not, why don't you give me the thumbs up today? Grazie!

9 comments:

  1. oh how i loved your tour... right down to your darling gonna be aging pic! your trip looks fantastic, i am beyond jealous... all of europe makes me happy, but italy is extra fun in the sun~

    our friends stayed in cinque terre and walked to the 5 different villages, did you do that too?

    it looks magnifico, thanks so much for sharing for those of us landlocked... keep the pics coming, surely you must have 100s more to share!

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  2. What a wonderful reminder. Looks like you hit Sienna (I remember that black and white striped church.) Best memory: my cousin married a marchesa(la-di-da)in her family's castle: http://www.montalto.it/
    Pure magic. - sigh -

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  3. Your pictures from Ristorante Miky bring back wonderful memories of the Cinque Terre! I'm glad you had a great trip and wish you a fabulous and happy birthday!

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  4. Your photos make me smile. Almost as though I got a preview of the best parts. I think this might be the next Vacation we plan. Perhaps a 5 year anniversary gift to ourselves. :)

    Thank you for sharing.

    P.S. Happy Birthday!

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  5. Looks like a wonderful trip! Glad you have so many great things in your life to celebrate. I like to remember the line from that old commercial: You're not getting older, you're getting better. July 1960 was a very good vintage :-)

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  6. Great synopsis of Italy's finest points! Art, Food, Wine! I also enjoyed your photos...especially the shot of the under-belly of a bird in flight! I agree with you about lemons. There is something about seeing lemons growing on a tree in a grove or a garden that is so delightful. I even saw lemon trees lining the streets of a small Italian village! Bellissimo!

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  7. That was awesome of your honey. Thanks for sharing.
    ~ingrid

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  8. Ahhh...I love Italy, too. We had the pleasure of going two years ago, but we took two of our boys. Not quite the same, I'm thinking, but lovely nonetheless. Yes on the wine always being good, yes on the architecture and art. Yes, yes, yes. I savor all my photos. Thanks for sharing your tour, and happy almost mid-century to you. I'm working on a +4 years now.

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  9. What a lucky lady you are to have your husband take you to Italy for the "BIG ONE"!! You look like the perfect couple!

    It has been years since I've been back to Italy. We eat pesto and panini regularly in our house...does that count?!

    Thanks for the tour :-)

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